Destructive Behavior Tips – 8 of 10 (Series)

Posted on January 22, 2012 by Vanessa

#8. Urine Spraying
Does your cat engage in urine spraying? That stinks! Felines may spray outdoors during territorial disputes, aggressive conflicts and sexual encounters, but they can also spray indoors in response to conflicts between other cat residents or if they feel threatened by outside cats. This is one problem you’ll want to solve quickly.

Medical Causes of House Soiling in Cats

House soiling, or inappropriate urination or defecation, is a common problem in cats. While in many cases the cause is a behavioral problem, sometimes medical issues are to blame. If your cat eliminates outside the litter box, she should be checked by a veterinarian for an underlying medical condition before it’s determined that the inappropriate elimination is due to a behavior problem. In addition to a complete physical examination, your cat should have a complete blood count, blood chemistry panel and urinalysis. Other tests, such as radio-graphs that use special dyes to outline the urinary tract, may be necessary as well. If an underlying condition is determined to be the cause of your cat’s house soiling, the medical problem should be treated, and her response to treatment should be closely monitored. Once any medical problems are treated, you may still need to retrain your cat to reestablish normal litter box elimination patterns.

Inappropriate Urination

There are several disorders that can be responsible for a cat not using her litter box. Some of the most common medical causes follow.

Bacterial Bladder Infection

Bacterial bladder infection, or bacterial cystitis, is common in cats. (In rare instances, the infection may be due to a fungus rather than bacteria.) Because the infection causes inflammation of the bladder, a cat with this medical problem feels a constant need to urinate. The urge to urinate may become so strong that she urinates small amounts frequently, often before she can reach the litter box. Certain conditions, like bladder stones, bladder tumors, defects in the shape of the bladder and diabetes, may make bladder infections more likely to occur. Female cats are more likely to be affected than males.

Cats suffering from bacterial cystitis may squat frequently to urinate but produce only a small amount of urine. They often continue to strain, even after they’re done urinating, and they may cry out while straining. Their urine may appear red in color due to blood. Cats suffering from bladder infections may also show signs such as not eating, lethargy or hiding.

The diagnosis is made by testing your cat’s urine for the presence of red blood cells, white blood cells and bacteria. In some cases, your cat’s veterinarian may have her urine tested in a lab to determine the specific bacteria involved, which will better guide therapy. Once a diagnosis is made, your cat will be started on a course of antibiotics that may last several weeks. If the condition recurs, your cat’s veterinarian may recommend special tests, such as radio-graphs and dye studies, to look for another cause for your cat’s cystitis.

Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD)

FLUTD is a common condition in cats. Although it has many of the same signs as bacterial cystitis (frequent urination, straining to urinate and bloody urine), there’s no bacterial infection. In most cases, no cause for the condition can be determined. Stress, multiple cats in the household and eating dry foods, which reduces urine production, may increase a cat’s risk of developing FLUTD. It’s more common in male cats, who may develop an obstruction of their urinary tract that makes it impossible for them to urinate. This is a medical emergency that needs immediate veterinary care.

Diagnosis of FLUTD is made by ruling out the other causes of cystitis. The signs may resolve on their own within a week without treatment, but they’re likely to recur. Treatment may involve many different strategies. One treatment, environmental enrichment, may decrease the rate of recurrence by 80%. Enrichment involves making various changes in your cat’s life to provide her with ample mental stimulation. This can make her more likely to use her litter box. Giving your cat more toys, increasing her access to windows and glass doors so she can see outside, and spending more time petting and playing with her may be helpful. In addition, you may need to increase the number of litter boxes in your home. There should be one litter box per cat, plus an additional box. Unscented litter should be used. The box should be scooped at least once daily and thoroughly cleaned at least once a month with an odorless cleaner. (Avoid using harsh cleaners, such as products containing bleach or ammonia.)

Medical treatment and dietary changes may also be needed to resolve the symptoms of FLUTD. Feed your cat canned food to increase her water intake, and make fresh water available at all times. Some medications may be useful during flare-ups of FLUTD or to reduce long-term symptoms. Drugs to relieve stress and anxiety or to reduce pain and bladder inflammation may be useful for cats who don’t respond to environmental enrichment.

Urinary Incontinence

A cat suffering from urinary incontinence loses the ability to control urination and dribbles urine. She may also leave a urine spot where she’s been sleeping. Urinary incontinence may be due to many causes that affect the bladder or the urethra, such as injury or a tumor of the spinal cord. Your cat’s veterinarian will do a complete work-up, similar to that for cystitis. Additional tests may be needed. Treatment depends on determining the underlying cause and then correcting it or giving medications to prevent the incontinence.

Increased Urine Production

Many diseases can increase the amount of urine a cat produces and lead to urinary accidents and an increased need to urinate. Conditions that may cause increased urine production include:

  • Kidney failure
  • Kidney infection
  • Diabetes
  • Liver disease
  • Increased thyroid hormone levels

Unlike cats with cystitis, cats with increased urine production generally void large amounts of urine without straining. Other signs may include increased water intake, poor appetite, weight loss and poor hair coat. Cats showing these signs need to be seen by a veterinarian to have a thorough work-up. Treatment depends on the cause of the increased urine production.

Inappropriate Defecation

Inappropriate defecation due to medical reasons is less common than inappropriate urination in cats. Even so, if your cat has defecates outside the litter box, she should be thoroughly examined by a veterinarian, who will run appropriate tests.

Conditions that cause diarrhea may increase urgency, causing a cat to defecate before she can make it to her litter box. So it’s important to determine if your cat is passing normal stool or some form of diarrhea. There are many causes of diarrhea, some of which may be temporary or intermittent. Severe constipation can also cause incontinence. Cats with severe constipation may frequently strain to pass stool and do so in an inappropriate place.

Fecal Incontinence

In fecal incontinence, a cat loses the ability to control defecation and may leave stool in random places around the house. This problem is usually caused by nerve damage—due to injury or a tumor of the spinal cord, for example—that prevents the normal control of defecation. Any cat who suffers from fecal incontinence should have a diagnostic evaluation by a veterinarian to determine the cause of the problem.

“We have clients that have more than one kitty cat, and there are issues with spraying. I hope that with information given in this Blog Series and help from your local vet you can help reduce the spraying or get to the root of your feline spraying. We care about your fur babies.”

- Vanessa

 

Posted in andrea cartolano, animal, animals, cat care, cats, Em-Bark Pet Care, embark pet care, feces, Feline, felines, fight, pet, Pet Care, pets, poop, tempe, Tempe arizona, Uncategorized, vanessa ortega | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Destructive Behavior Tips – 7 of 10 (Series)

Posted on January 12, 2012 by Vanessa

#7. Jumping Up
It’s natural for puppies and dogs to jump on people when they say hello. Why? Because we’re taller than they are! In attempting to reach our faces, they’re simply trying to greet us the same way they’d greet another dog-nose-to-nose. Unfortunately, that doesn’t stop you from getting ambushed, even if it is with 100-percent friendly intent.

Teaching Your Dog Not to Jump Up on People

Puppies and dogs naturally jump up on people when they say hello. Why? Because we’re taller than they are! When dogs meet, they sniff each other’s faces. They like to do the same thing when greeting us, so it’s perfectly natural for dogs to jump up on us to try to reach our faces and get our attention.

What to Do About the Problem

The key to teaching your dog not to jump on you when she greets you is to tell her that you only greet dogs who keep their front paws on the floor. Although you can’t tell her with words, you can tell her with actions. When your dog greets you, her goal is to get your attention and to get you to pet her. Knowing this, you can show your dog what she must do to earn your attention and touch. Try to remember two things each time you greet your dog:

  • Keep your attention and your hands away from your dog unless her front feet are on the floor.
  • Immediately give your dog attention and petting the instant her front feet land on the floor.

For instance, when you enter a door and your dog jumps up on you, ignore her. Don’t tell her to get off you and don’t push her away. Instead, stand up straight and look over her head. If you move your arms and hands at all, pull them up toward your chest. If she continues jumping all over you, turn away. She’ll have to put her front paws on the floor to follow you. The instant her front paws touch the floor, melt into the wonderful loving owner that you are, and say “Good girl” quietly and pet her head. If she jumps up at your touch, just pull your hand away, stand up straight like before, and ignore her until her feet find the floor once again. The moment her feet touch the floor, pet her. Your attention and your touch are the words that you can use to let your dog how she needs to act to get your attention.

Never withhold attention when your dog’s feet finally do touch the floor—even if you’re irritated at her for jumping a moment earlier. She has to be able to make the connection that front feet on the floor magically result in attention and affection from people.

Training Exercises

It’s important to teach your dog what you do want her to do during greetings. For example, you can train her to sit or stand to greet people instead of leaping all over them.   The following exercises can help your dog learn to greet you and others politely:

  • When your dog starts to jump up, stand still, look straight ahead (not at your dog), and pull your hands and arms up to your chest. Calmly wait for your dog to stop jumping. When her front paws touch the floor, immediately look at her and calmly stroke her. If she gets excited and jumps up again, straighten back up and repeat the sequence.
  • If your dog already knows how to sit on cue (command), try this step. When your dog starts to jump up, stand still, look straight ahead (not at your dog), and pull your hands and arms up to your chest. Say “Off” and immediately turn your back to your dog so that she can’t reach your face. Then say “Sit.” When she sits (watch her in your peripheral vision so that you can see), turn back around to face her, kneel down and calmly stroke her. If your dog jumps up again, quickly stand up and turn your back on her as you did before. Keep repeating this sequence until your dog stops jumping up.
  • If you’re entering a room and your dog starts to jump up, immediately step back outside and close the door behind you, leaving it open just a crack. Through the crack in the door, say “Sit.” When your dog sits, calmly walk back into the room, kneel down and gently stroke her. If she jumps up again, quickly stand up and walk right back out of the room again, closing the door behind you. Keep repeating this sequence until your dog stops jumping up.
  • When your dog starts to jump up, stand still, look straight ahead (not at your dog), and pull your hands and arms up to your chest. Say “Off,” and take a few quick steps toward your dog. (Be careful to not step on her toes.) She’ll jump back to get out of your way. The instant her front paws are on the floor, say “Sit.” When she sits, kneel down and calmly stroke her. If she jumps up again, immediately stand up and repeat the sequence.
  • Once your dog has learned to greet you politely, recruit several friends to help you teach your dog to greet visitors politely as well. One at a time, have your friends practice the exercise above that starts with the person entering the house or room. Explain the sequence to them: turn their back, walk out and close the door if your dog jumps on them. Then start your practice session with one of them knocking or ringing the bell, and go with your dog to answer it. Before you open the door, tell your dog to sit. When she does, open the door. If your dog jumps, your friend knows what to do. If your dog stays sitting, your friend can calmly greet her and you can praise and treat her. Have each of your friends do several repetitions.

Additional Tips

  •  Because of their extreme excitement when greeting people, some dogs find it easier to grab a toy to shake or hold, rather than sit for petting. If this sounds like your dog, keep a toy by the front door. When you come home, open the door and immediately direct your dog’s attention to the toy or throw it for her. Do the same thing for your dog when visitors come to your home.
  • Because teaching your dog not to jump can be challenging, don’t hesitate to enlist the help of a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) in your area. A professional trainer will offer group or private classes that can give you and your dog lots of help with jumping issues.
  • If your dog shows signs of aggression, such as growling or teeth showing while lunging or jumping toward you, your family members or visitors during greetings, you should seek the assistance of a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or Associate CAAB), a veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB) or a qualified Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) who has experience treating aggression. If you elect to hire a CPDT because you can’t find a behaviorist in your area, be sure to determine whether she or he has professional training and extensive experience in successfully working with aggression, as this expertise isn’t required for CPDT certification.

What NOT to Do

  • Do not become really excited when you greet your dog. The calmer you are, the calmer your dog will be.
  • Do not shout at your dog when she jumps up on you or others. Shouting will just make her more excited and cause more jumping up.
  • Do not try to grab your dog or push away. Doing that could just cause more jumping up.
  • Do not knee your dog in the chest, step on her back toes, grab or pinch her front toes, or otherwise cause her pain or discomfort. If you do, you’ll frighten and hurt your dog, and she still won’t have learned how to politely greet people.
Posted in andrea cartolano, animal, animals, dogs, Em-Bark Pet Care, embark pet care, pet, Pet Care, pets, vanessa ortega | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Neutering and Behavior

Posted on January 2, 2012 by Vanessa

By a1chk From Merchant Circle

Neutering is a surgical procedure performed on a male/female cat or dog that makes them unable to reproduce. In males the testicles are removed, and in females the ovaries and uterus are removed while the animal is under anesthesia. Pets are neutered to prevent unwanted births and potential medical disorders. Neutering pets has been known to show minimal side-effects on behavior, you can prepare yourself by knowing what to look for.

Temperament

The intelligence, personality and temperament of your pet will not change because they were neutered. Many pet owners fear that pets will become resentful and withdrawn, and often times this will not be the case. Once your pet has fully healed, you can expect vitality levels to go back to what they once were. If you are acting as a caring, responsible pet-owner and have the intention of neutering your pet be assured that your pet will be ok, and their health and energy will resume to normal after surgery.

Sexual Behavior

For the most part neutering removes the development and the desire for continued sexual behavior in pets. If pets have experienced sexual activity before neutering, there may be some lingering urges for a short time, but they will eventually cease. If mounting other dogs and masturbation still occurs with castrated dogs, this is usually a sign of them demonstrating their male dominance, and there is no need for major concern.

Aggression

Behaviors of fighting and aggression are generally more subdued in pets that have been nurtured and sprayed. The levels of dominance aggression in males decrease, and irritable aggression in females is decreased. Territorial aggression, when it comes to pets protecting their homes and personal living space does not decrease and tends to stay the same. Neutering should not be used as a treatment for aggression, and a diagnosis of the type of aggression experienced by your pet should be analyzed if it becomes a problem.

 

Tags:

Posted in andrea cartolano, animal, animals, anxious dog, cat care, cats, dogs, Em-Bark Pet Care, embark pet care, Feline, felines, pet, Pet Care, pets, Phoenix, sexual side effects, vanessa ortega | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Destructive Behavior Tips – 6 of 10 (Series)

Posted on December 15, 2011 by Vanessa

 

#6. Scratching by your Cat

 

Cats love to scratch, and with good reason. They do it to mark territory, and they do it in play. It keeps their claws sharpened, and feels great when they’re stretching. Alas, it doesn’t look so great when they do it to your carpeting, drapes and furniture. Should you declaw your scratch-aholic? That’s a major DON’T!!!!

 

Destructive Scratching

 

Cats like to scratch. They scratch during play. They scratch while stretching. They scratch to mark territory or as a threatening signal other cats. And because cats’ claws need regular sharpening, cats scratch on things to remove frayed, worn outer claws and expose new, sharper claws. Unfortunately, all this scratching can cause a lot of damage to furniture, drapes and carpeting!

 

What to Do About Your Cat’s Scratching Habits

 

The best tactic when dealing with scratching is not to try to stop your cat from scratching, but instead to teach her where and what to scratch. An excellent approach is to provide her with appropriate, cat-attractive surfaces and objects to scratch, such as scratching posts. The following steps will help you encourage your cat to scratch where you want her to.

 

  • Provide a variety of scratching posts with different qualities and surfaces. Try giving your cat posts made of cardboard, carpeting, wood, sisal and upholstery. Some cats prefer horizontal posts. Others like vertical posts or slanted posts. Some prefer a vertical grain for raking, while others favor a horizontal grain for picking. Once you figure out your cat’s preference for scratching, provide additional posts of that kind in various locations. Keep in mind that all cats want a sturdy post that won’t shift or collapse when used. Most cats also like a post that’s tall enough that they can stretch fully. (This may be why cats seem to like drapes so much!)
  • Encourage your cat to investigate her posts by scenting them with catnip, hanging toys on them and placing them in areas where she’ll be inclined to climb on them.
  • Discourage inappropriate scratching by removing or covering other desirable objects. Turn speakers toward the wall. Put plastic, double-sided sticky tape, sandpaper or upside-down vinyl carpet runner (knobby parts up) on furniture or on the floor where your cat would stand to scratch your furniture. Place scratching posts next to these objects, as “legal” alternatives.
  • Clip your cat’s nails regularly or take them to a groomer if you are uncomfortable doing this yourself.
  • Consider putting plastic caps on your cat’s claws (Soft Claws®) so that he’ll do no damage if he scratches on something in your home. These special caps attach to claws with an adhesive. They’re temporary, lasting four to six weeks.
  • If you catch your cat in the act of scratching an inappropriate object, you can try startling him by clapping your hands or squirting him with water. Use this procedure only as a last resort, because your cat may associate you with the startling event (clapping or squirting) and learn to fear you.
  • If you need help, don’t hesitate to call in the experts.

 

What NOT to Do

 

  • Do not hold your cat by the scratching post and force her to drag her claws on it. This practice could seriously frighten your cat and teach her to avoid the scratching post completely. (She might decide to avoid you, too!)
  • Do not throw away a favorite scratching post when it becomes unsightly. Cats prefer shredded and torn objects because they can really get their claws into the material. Used posts will also appeal to your cat because they smell and look familiar to her.

 

Should You Declaw Your Cat?

 

Some people declaw their cats to prevent or resolve a scratching problem. The term “declaw” is a misnomer. It implies that declawing only involves the removal of a cat’s claws. In reality, declawing involves amputating the end of a cat’s toes. Cats suffer significant pain while recovering from declawing. An alternative surgery, a tendonectomy, severs the tendons in a cat’s toes so that she’s unable to extend her nails to scratch. This procedure may or may not cause less pain. However, if you choose this type of surgery, you must clip your cat’s nails regularly because she’ll be unable to maintain them herself.

 

Here at EmBARK Pet Care, we  discourage declawing and tendonectomies because of the extreme pain that these surgeries inevitably cause. Both procedures are illegal in some European countries because they’re considered cruel to animals. We only recommend such surgeries if a cat caretaker has unsuccessfully tried everything else to resolve scratching behavior and is considering euthanasia.


Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Destructive Behavior Tips – 5 of 10 (Series)

Posted on December 12, 2011 by Vanessa

 

#5. Puppy Mouthing and Nipping
Puppies love to play with people. They’ll chew on your fingers and toes, and investigate the rest of you with their mouths and teeth. It may be cute with they’re seven weeks old, but not nearly so endearing at the ripe old age of five months.  One possible solution? Bite inhibition.

 

Puppy Mouthing

 

Puppies spend a great deal of time playing, chewing and investigating objects. All of these normal activities involve puppies using their mouths and their needle-sharp teeth. When puppies play with people, they often bite, chew and mouth on people’s hands, limbs and clothing. This kind of behavior may seem cute when your puppy is seven weeks old, but it’s not nearly so endearing when he’s three or four months old—and getting bigger by the day!

 

What to Do About Puppy Mouthing

 

It’s important to help your puppy learn to curb his mouthy behavior. There are various ways, some better than others, to teach this lesson. The ultimate goal is to train your puppy to stop mouthing and biting people altogether. However, the first and most important objective is to teach him that people have very sensitive skin, so he must be very gentle when using his mouth.

 

Bite Inhibition: Teach Your Puppy to Be Gentle

 

Bite inhibition refers to a dog’s ability to control the force of his mouthing. A puppy or dog who hasn’t learned bite inhibition with people doesn’t recognize the sensitivity of human skin, and so he bites too hard, even in play. Some behaviorists and trainers believe that a dog who has learned to use his mouth gently when interacting with people will be less likely to bite hard and break skin if he ever bites someone in a situation apart from play—like when he’s afraid or in pain.

 

Puppies usually learn bite inhibition during play with other puppies. If you watch a group of puppies playing, you’ll see plenty of chasing, pouncing and wrestling. Puppies also bite each other all over. Every now and then, a pup will bite his playmate too hard. The victim of the painful bite yelps and usually stops playing. The offender is often taken aback by the yelp and also stops playing for a moment. However, pretty soon, both playmates are back in the game. Through this kind of interaction, puppies learn to control the intensity of their bites so that no one gets hurt and the play can continue without interruption. If puppies can learn how to be gentle from each other, they can also learn the same lesson from people.

 

When you play with your puppy, let him mouth on your hands. Continue play until he bites especially hard. When he does, immediately give a high-pitched yelp, as if you’re hurt, and let your hand go limp. This should startle your puppy and cause him to stop mouthing you, at least momentarily. (If yelping seems to have no effect, you can say “Too bad!” or “You blew it!” in a stern voice instead.) Praise your puppy for stopping or for licking you. Resume whatever you were doing before. If your puppy bites you hard again, yelp again. Repeat these steps no more than three times within a 15-minute period. If you find that yelping alone doesn’t work, you can switch to a time-out procedure. Time-outs are often very effective for curbing mouthing in puppies. When your puppy delivers a hard bite, yelp loudly. Then, when he startles and turns to look at you or looks around, remove your hand. Either ignore him for 10 to 20 seconds or, if he starts mouthing on you again, get up and move away for 10 to 20 seconds. After the short time-out, return to your puppy and encourage him to play with you again. It’s important to teach him that gentle play continues, but painful play stops. Play with your puppy until he bites hard again. When he does, repeat the sequence above. When your puppy isn’t delivering really hard bites anymore, you can tighten up your rules a little. Require your puppy to be even gentler. Yelp and stop play in response to moderately hard bites. Persist with this process of yelping and then ignoring your puppy or giving him a time-out for his hardest bites. As those disappear, do the same for his next-hardest bites, and so on, until your puppy can play with your hands very gently, controlling the force of his mouthing so that you feel little or no pressure at all.

What to Do Next: Teach Your Puppy That Teeth Don’t Belong on Human Skin

 

  • Substitute a toy or chew bone when your puppy tries to gnaw on fingers or toes.
  • Puppies often mouth on people’s hands when stroked, patted and scratched (unless they’re sleepy or distracted). If your puppy gets all riled up when you pet him, distract him by feeding him small treats from your other hand. This will help your puppy get used to being touched without mouthing.
  • Encourage noncontact forms of play, such as fetch and tug-of-war, rather than wrestling and rough play with your hands. To keep tug-of-war safe and fun for you and your puppy, you’ll need to follow strict rules. Once your puppy can play tug safely, keep tug toys in your pocket or have them easily accessible. If he starts to mouth you, you can immediately redirect him to the tug toy. Ideally, he’ll start to anticipate and look for a toy when he feels like mouthing.
  • If your puppy bites at your feet and ankles, carry his favorite tug toy in your pocket. Whenever he ambushes you, instantly stop moving your feet. Take out the tug toy and wave it enticingly. When your puppy grabs the toy, start moving again. If you don’t happen to have the toy available, just freeze and wait for your puppy to stop mouthing you. The second he stops, praise and get a toy to reward him. Repeat these steps until your puppy gets used to watching you move around without going after your feet or ankles.
  • Provide plenty of interesting and new toys so that your puppy will play with them instead of gnawing on you or your clothing.
  • Provide plenty of opportunities for your puppy to play with other puppies and with friendly, vaccinated adult dogs. Playing and socializing with dog buddies is important for your puppy’s development—and if he expends a lot of his energy playing with other puppies, he’ll feel less motivated to play roughly with you. Consider enrolling your puppy in a good puppy class, where he can have supervised playtime with other puppies and learn some important new skills! Use a time-out procedure, just like the one described above—but change the rules a little. Instead of giving your puppy time-outs for hard biting, start to give him time-outs every time you feel his teeth touch your skin.
    • The instant you feel your puppy’s teeth touch you, give a high-pitched yelp. Then immediately walk away from him. Ignore him for 30 to 60 seconds. If your puppy follows you or continues to bite and nip at you, leave the room for 30 to 60 seconds. (Be sure that the room is “puppy-proofed” before you leave your puppy alone in it. Don’t leave him in an area with things he might destroy or things that might hurt him.) After the brief time-out, return to the room and calmly resume whatever you were doing with your puppy.
    • Alternatively, you can keep a leash attached to your puppy during time-out training and let it drag on the floor when you’re there to supervise him. Then, instead of leaving the room when your puppy mouths you, you can take hold of his leash and lead him to a quiet area, tether him, and turn your back to him for the brief time-out. Then untie him and resume whatever you were doing.
  • If a time-out isn’t viable or effective, consider using a taste deterrent, such as Grannick’s Bitter Apple®. Using Taste Deterrents Spray areas of your body and clothing that your puppy likes to mouth before you start interacting with him. If he mouths you or your clothing, stop moving and wait for him to react to the bad taste of the deterrent. Praise him lavishly when he lets go of you. Apply the bad taste to your body and clothes for at least two weeks. After two weeks of being punished by the bitter taste every time he mouths you, your puppy will likely learn to inhibit his mouthy behavior.
  • Be patient and understanding. Playful mouthing is normal behavior for a puppy or young dog.

 

Because mouthing issues can be challenging to work with, don’t hesitate to enlist the help of a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT). A CPDT will offer group or private classes that can give you and your dog lots of assistance with mouthing.

 

General Precautions

 

  • Avoid waving your fingers or toes in your puppy’s face or slapping the sides of his face to entice him to play. Doing these things can actually encourage your puppy to bite your hands and feet.
  • Do not discourage your puppy from playing with you in general. Play builds a strong bond between a dog and his human family. You want to teach your puppy to play gently, rather than not at all.
  • Avoid jerking your hands or feet away from your puppy when he mouths. This will encourage him to jump forward and grab at you. It’s much more effective to let your hands or feet go limp so that they aren’t much fun to play with.
  • Slapping or hitting puppies for playful mouthing can cause them to bite harder. They usually react by playing more aggressively. Physical punishment can also make your puppy afraid of you—and it can even cause real aggression. Avoid scruff shaking, whacking your puppy on the nose, sticking your fingers down his throat and all other punishments that might hurt or scare him.

 

When Does Mouthing Become Aggression?

 

Most puppy mouthing is normal behavior. However, some puppies bite out of fear or frustration, and this type of biting can signal problems with future aggression.

 

Puppy “Temper Tantrums”

 

Puppies sometimes have temper tantrums. Usually tantrums happen when you’re making a puppy do something he doesn’t like. Something as benign as simply holding your puppy still or handling his body might upset him. Tantrums can also happen when play escalates. (Even human “puppies” can have tantrums during play when they get overexcited or upset!) A puppy temper tantrum is more serious than playful mouthing, but it isn’t always easy to tell the difference between the two. In most cases, a playful puppy will have a relaxed body and face. His muzzle might look wrinkled, but you won’t see a lot of tension in his facial muscles. If your puppy has a temper tantrum, his body might look very stiff or frozen. He might pull his lips back to expose his teeth or growl. Almost always, his bites will be much more painful than normal mouthing during play.

 

If you’re holding or handling your puppy and he starts to throw a temper tantrum, avoid yelping like you’re hurt. Doing that might actually cause your puppy to continue or intensify his aggressive behavior. Instead, be very calm and unemotional. Don’t hurt your puppy, but continue to hold him firmly without constriction, if possible, until he stops struggling. After he’s quieted down for just a second or two, let him go. Then make plans to contact a qualified professional for help. Repeated bouts of biting in frustration are not something that the puppy will simply grow out of, so your puppy’s behavior should be assessed and resolved as soon as possible.

 

When and Where to Get Help

 

A trained professional can help you determine whether or not your puppy’s mouthing is normal, and she or he can guide you through an effective treatment plan. If you suspect that your puppy’s biting fits the description of aggressive or fearful behavior, please seek consultation with a qualified professional, such as a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB) or a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behavior (Dip ACVB). If you can’t find a behaviorist in your area, you can seek help from a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT)—but be sure to determine whether she or he has professional training and experience in successfully treating fear and aggression problems, as this expertise isn’t required for CPDT certification.Teething Puppy


Posted in andrea cartolano, animal, animals, anxious dog, dogs, Em-Bark Pet Care, embark pet care, pet, Pet Care, pets, vanessa ortega | Leave a comment

Going Green for SARAH!!!

Posted on November 23, 2011 by Vanessa

So last month I, Vanessa, had a personal run in with a very serious pet emergency when my dog, Sarah, decided it was her duty to eat the poison or attractant in a fly trap I had sitting in my Arizona Room.

I was sitting an ILOVEMARKETING.com Meet Up at Joe Polish’s Office with a bunch of other great business people listening to their wonderful Mafia offers, when I got a strange feeling that told me to check my phone. Upon checking my phone I find text, and a picture that shows/tells me what Sarah did. Talk about being a Mom and trusting my gut.

I was home in no time, and able to get her to throw up what she had eaten. I was on dog duty for the rest of the night.

This really got me thinking…… I need to really take the time out to green up my house not only for the environment but for my dogs, my son, and myself.

For starters the house cleaning products I’m buying are going to be earth friendly, and be stored in the laundry room away from the kitchen where the dogs can get to them AND away from the place that I cook the food that I eat! I just had my carpets cleaned and made sure that the solution used was also pet/earth friendly.  Even the toys I’m purchasing for my fur babies to play with are being scrutinized, I’m not taking any chances.

These are just small steps and the start of a long list that I plan to put into place over the next year as I put my back yard together and get my house to where I want it.

LET’s GO GREEN for not only us, the earth, but for OUR FUR BABIES!

Posted in andrea cartolano, animal, animals, dogs, Em-Bark Pet Care, embark pet care, pet, Pet Care, pets, vanessa ortega | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Check out these great packages offered by Bullseye Video – Dave Katz

Posted on November 16, 2011 by Vanessa

Samples of Bullseye Video Pet Photography work can be found at http://budurl.com/BVPetsFB
Don’t forget to include your Furry Family Members in your photos this year. Schedule a Pet Photo Session today. Call Dave at 480-251-6728 or email Dave@Bullseyevideo.com to reserve your session now!

Posted in animal, animals, dogs, Em-Bark Pet Care, embark pet care, pet, Pet Care, Pet sitters, Pet Sitting, pet walks, vanessa ortega | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Destructive Behavior Tips – 4 of 10 (Series)

Posted on October 11, 2011 by Vanessa

#4. Play Aggression
It’s great fun and good exercise for your cat to stalk, chase, pounce, swat, kick, scratch and bite her toys. But you’re not one of her toys! Here’s what to do if you think your feline plays too rough with you!

Cats Who Play Rough    

All kittens and young cats need to play. Play is normal behavior that provides young animals with opportunities to develop their physical coordination and problem-solving skills. It also gives them a chance to hone their social skills with members of their own species. It’s very common for kittens and young cats to engage in rough, active play because all feline play consists of mock aggression. Cats stalk, chase, pounce, swat, kick, scratch and bite each other—all in good fun. However, people often misinterpret this kind of behavior as aggression when it’s directed toward them.

Cats display two different types of play behavior: solitary play and social play. They direct solitary play toward objects, like toys, skeins of yarn, paper bags, boxes and rolled-up paper. Social play is directed toward fellow cats, people or other animals. Unfortunately, problems can sometimes arise when feline play is directed toward people. Despite the playful intentions of a cat, he can cause injury to his human playmates. Cat scratches and bites are painful and can easily become infected.

Other Behavior Problems to Rule Out

Aggression

Cats occasionally display aggression toward people. True aggression is most likely to occur in cats who are easily frightened or when they react to the sight, sound or scent of another cat outdoors. If you live with a cat who’s under one year of age and you’re his only playmate, it’s likely that he’s playing roughly with you rather than actually behaving aggressively. However, it’s sometimes difficult to determine the difference between feline play and real aggression. It might help to observe your cat’s body language. Two behaviors that cats frequently display when playing are the “play face,” where a cat holds his mouth half open, and the sideways pounce or hop, which a cat often does with his back arched. Cats also tend to play quietly. During aggressive encounters, however, they often growl, hiss and spit.

 

 

How to Reduce Your Cat’s Rough Play Behavior

  • Provide a variety of toys for your cat so you can determine his preferences. In general, cats seem to enjoy batting at small toys, like balls and fake mice. They also like to stalk, chase and pounce on things that move like prey, such as toys with feathers attached to flexible rods that you can dangle and move about. Try getting your cat a Kitty Teaser or some other kind of toy that dangles.
  • Frequently give your cat new objects to investigate, such as paper bags or cardboard boxes.
  • Twice a day, spend at least ten minutes playing with your cat. During playtime, don’t encourage him to bat at your hands or feet. Instead, direct the play away from you by using a long toy or throwing your cat’s favorite toys. Schedule play sessions to coincide with times when your cat seems most active and playful.
  • If your cat likes to grab your feet as you go up and down the stairs or hide under things and ambush your ankles or legs as you walk by, carry toys with you and toss them ahead of you to redirect his attention. Try to get him to focus on chasing the toys instead of attacking you.
  • Consider adopting another cat as a playmate. If you do, choose a young, playful cat like your current cat.
  • Build an outdoor enclosure for your cat, complete with branches, boxes, shelves and perches for him to navigate. If you can provide a more complex environment for your cat, full of opportunities to hunt insects and chase leaves, your cat will be less motivated to play with you.
  • Consistently give your cat “time-outs” when he plays too roughly. The instant he starts to bite or scratch you, end the game by leaving the room. Don’t attempt to pick up your cat and put him in another room for the time-out as this could provoke more bites.   

 WHAT NOT TO DO!!

  •  Do not encourage your cat to play with your hands, feet or any other body part. While it may be fun when you have a tiny kitten, it becomes painful and dangerous as your kitten grows up.
  • Do not use toys that teach your cat to play with your hands, such as gloves with balls hanging from the fingers. If you do, your cat will be encouraged to direct his play at your hands and won’t understand that it’s only okay to attack your hands when you’re wearing the toy gloves.
  • Do not physically punish your cat for rough play. If you hit or slap your cat, he may perceive your actions as play and become even rougher. Alternatively, he might become fearful of your hands and respond by avoiding you or changing from play to real aggression.
  • Never run from your cat or try to block his movements with your feet. These actions can cause your cat to intensify his play or become aggressive.

Additional Tips

If your cat insists on directing his play at you, despite your best efforts to encourage him to play with toys, you can interrupt his rough play behavior by squirting him with water from a spray bottle. A short blast of compressed air (no sound) from a can might also be an effective deterrent. You’ll need to carry your water bottle or air canister with you at all times when your cat is likely to ambush you so that you can deliver the spray the instant he starts to run at you. If your cat pounces on you and you don’t have your water bottle or air canister handy, try clapping your hands loudly to startle him. As soon as he stops, throw a toy away from you to direct his play behavior toward the toy. Small wads of paper kept in your pocket or in likely ambush places around the house often work well as substitute toys.

It may take a bit of time and effort, but if you’re consistent and patient, you can teach your cat to direct his playful energy toward appropriate toys instead of you. 

Posted in andrea cartolano, animal, animals, cat body language, cat care, cats, Em-Bark Pet Care, embark pet care, Feline, felines, pet, Pet Care, pets, tempe, Tempe arizona, vanessa ortega | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Destructive Behavior Tips – 3 of 10 (Series)

Posted on October 9, 2011 by Vanessa

#3. Destructive Chewing
Dogs chew for fun, they chew for stimulation and exercise, and they chew to relieve anxiety. But sometimes they chew things they shouldn’t-like the leg on the new table, or all the shoes in your closet. And because your dog is not born knowing what is off limits, it’s up to you to teach him.

Destructive Chewing

It’s normal for puppies and dogs to chew on objects as they explore the world. Chewing accomplishes a number of things for a dog. For young dogs, it’s a way to relieve pain that might be caused by incoming teeth. For older dogs, it’s nature’s way of keeping jaws strong and teeth clean. Chewing also combats boredom and can relieve mild anxiety or frustration.

Rule Out Problems That Can Cause Destructive Chewing

Separation Anxiety

Dogs who chew to relieve the stress of separation anxiety usually only chew when left alone or chew most intensely when left alone. They also display other signs of separation anxiety, such as whining, barking, pacing, restlessness, urination and defecation.

Some dogs lick, suck and chew at fabrics. Some experts believe that this behavior results from having been weaned too early (before seven or eight weeks of age). If a dog’s fabric-sucking behavior occurs for lengthy periods of time and it’s difficult to distract him when he attempts to engage in it, it’s possible that the behavior has become compulsive. If you think this might be the case with your dog, please seek out a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB), a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB) or a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) with specialized training and experience in treating compulsive behavior.

Hunger

A dog on a calorie-restricted diet might chew and destroy objects in an attempt to find additional sources of nutrition. Dogs usually direct this kind of chewing toward objects related to food or that smell like food.

How to Manage or Reduce Your Dog’s Destructive Chewing

Puppy Teething

The desire to investigate interesting objects and the discomfort of teething motivate puppies to chew. Much like human infants, puppies go through a stage when they lose their baby teeth and experience pain as their adult teeth come in. This intensified chewing phase usually ends by six months of age. Some recommend giving puppies ice cubes, special dog toys that can be frozen or frozen wet washcloths to chew, which might help numb teething pain. Although puppies do need to chew on things, gentle guidance can teach your puppy to restrict chewing to appropriate objects, like his own toys. Please see Useful Tips, below, under Normal Chewing Behavior, to channel your puppy’s urge to chew in the right direction.

Normal Chewing Behavior

Chewing is a perfectly normal behavior for dogs of all ages. Both wild and domestic dogs spend hours chewing bones. This activity keeps their jaws strong and their teeth clean. Dogs love to chew on bones, sticks and just about anything else available. They chew for fun, they chew for stimulation, and they chew to relieve anxiety. While chewing behavior is normal, dogs sometimes direct their chewing behavior toward inappropriate items. Both puppies and adult dogs should have a variety of appropriate and attractive chew toys. However, just providing the right things to chew isn’t enough to prevent inappropriate chewing. Dogs need to learn what is okay to chew and what is not. They need to be taught in a gentle, humane manner.

Useful Tips

  • “Dog-proof” your house. Put valuable objects away until you’re confident that your dog’s chewing behavior is restricted to appropriate items. Keep shoes and clothing in a closed closest, dirty laundry in a hamper and books on shelves. Make it easy for your dog to succeed.
  • Provide your dog with plenty of his own toys and inedible chew bones. Pay attention to the types of toys that keep him chewing for long periods of time and continue to offer those. Try Nylabones, Greenies Smart Chew bones, Dental KONGs and natural bones. It’s ideal to introduce something new or rotate your dog’s chew toys every couple of days so that he doesn’t get bored with the same old toys. (Use caution: Only give your dog natural bones that are sold specifically for chewing. Do not give him cooked bones, like leftover t-bones or chicken wings, as these can splinter and seriously injure your dog. Also keep in mind that some intense chewers may be able to chip small pieces off of natural bones or chip their own teeth while chewing. If you have concerns about what’s safe to give your dog, speak with his veterinarian.)
  • Offer your dog some edible things to chew, like bully sticks, pig ears, rawhide bones, pig skin rolls, other natural chews, Dentastix, Dentabones and Nylabone Healthy Edibles bones. Dogs can sometimes choke on edible chews, especially if they bite off and swallow large hunks. If your dog is inclined to do this, make sure he’s separated from other dogs when he chews so he can relax. (If he has to chew in the presence of other dogs, he might feel that he has to compete with them and try to quickly gulp down edible items.) Also be sure to keep an eye on your dog whenever he’s working on an edible chew so that you can intervene if he starts to choke.
  • Identify times of the day when your dog is most likely to chew and give him a puzzle toy, such as a KONG, Squirrel Dude, Twist ‘n Treat or Buster Cube, filled with something delicious. You can include some of your dog’s daily ration of food in the toy.
  • Discourage chewing inappropriate items by spraying them with chewing deterrents. When you first use a deterrent, apply a small amount to a piece of tissue or cotton wool. Gently place it directly in your dog’s mouth. Allow him to taste it and then spit it out. If your dog finds the taste unpleasant, he might shake his head, drool or retch. He won’t pick up the piece of tissue or wool again. Ideally, he will have learned the connection between the taste and the odor of the deterrent, and he’ll be more likely to avoid chewing items that smell like it. Spray the deterrent on all objects that you don’t want your dog to chew. Reapply the deterrent every day for two to four weeks. Some commonly used deterrents are Grannick’s Bitter Apple spray or gel (Which I use not only on my dogs but for clients dogs who tend to have destructive chewing behavior – Love It!), Veterinarian’s Best Bitter Cherry Spray, Yuk-2e Anti-Lick Gel, Bitter YUCK! No Chew Spray, Chew Guard Spray and Tabasco sauce – which is typically in most kitchens, but beware your dog may end up findng this deterrent tasty. Please realize, however, that successful treatment for destructive chewing will require more than just the use of deterrents. Dogs need to learn what they can chew as well as what they can’t chew.
  • Do your best to supervise your dog during all waking hours until you feel confident that his chewing behavior is under control. If you see him licking or chewing an item he shouldn’t, say “Uh-oh,” remove the item from your dog’s mouth, and insert something that he CAN chew. Then praise him happily. If you suspect that your dog might react aggressively if you remove an item from his mouth, please find a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or Associate CAAB), a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB) or a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) with specialized training in treating aggression for guidance. The last thing you want when trying to correct your dogs destructive behavior is to get bit and have a bad event lead to worse condtions.
  • When you can’t supervise your dog, you must find a way to prevent him from chewing on inappropriate things in your absence. For example, if you work during the day, you can leave your dog at home in a confinement area for up to six hours. Use a crate or put your dog in a small room with the door or a baby gate closed. Be sure to remove all things that your dog shouldn’t chew from his confinement area, and give him a variety of appropriate toys and chew things to enjoy instead. Keep in mind that if you confine your dog, you’ll need to give him plenty of exercise and quality time with you when he’s not confined and/or you can hire a Professional Pet Care Company like Em-BARK Pet Care to do this for you when you are unable to.
  • Provide your dog with plenty of physical exercise (playtime with you and with other dogs) and mental stimulation (training, social visits, etc.). If you have to leave your dog alone for more than a short period of time, make sure he gets out for a good play session beforehand either by way of a walk or a game of fetch.
  • To help your dog learn the difference between things he should and shouldn’t chew, it’s important to avoid confusing him by offering unwanted household items, like old shoes and discarded cushions. It isn’t fair to expect your dog to learn that some shoes are okay to chew and others aren’t.
  • Some puppies and juvenile dogs like to chew dirty underwear. This problem is most easily resolved by always putting dirty underwear in a closed hamper. Likewise, some puppies and dogs like to raid the garbage and chew up discarded sanitary napkins and tampons. This can be very dangerous. If a dog eats a sanitary item, it can expand while moving through his digestive system. Discard napkins and tampons in a container that’s inaccessible to your dog. Most young dogs grow out of these behaviors as they mature.

Lack of Exercise or Mental Stimulation

Some dogs simply do not get enough physical and mental stimulation. Bored dogs tend look for ways to entertain themselves, and chewing is one option. To prevent destructive chewing, be sure to provide plenty of ways for your dog to exercise his mind and body. Great ways to accomplish this include daily walks and outings, off-leash play with other dogs, tug and fetch games, clicker training classes, dog sports (agility, freestyle, flyball, etc.), and feeding meals in food puzzle toys, like the KONG, Squirrel Dude, Twist ‘n Treat, TreatStik, Tricky Treat Ball or Buster Cube.

Stress and Frustration

Sometimes a dog will chew when experiencing something that causes stress, such as being crated near another animal he doesn’t get along with or getting teased by children when confined in a car. To reduce this kind of chewing, try to avoid exposing your dog to situations that make him nervous or upset. Remember our animals can’t exactly speak to us so this is their way of communicating that something is bothering them.

Dogs who are prevented from engaging in exciting activities sometimes direct biting, shaking, tearing and chewing at nearby objects. Shelter dogs and puppies sometimes grab and shake blankets or bowls in their kennels whenever people walk by because they’d like attention. When they don’t get it, their frustration is expressed through destructive behavior. A dog who sees a squirrel or cat run by and wants to chase but is behind a fence might grab and chew at the gate. A dog watching another dog in a training class might become so excited by the sight of his canine classmate having fun that he grabs and chews his leash. (Agility and Flyball dogs are especially prone to this behavior because they watch other dogs racing around and having a great time, and they want to join in the action.) The best intervention for this problem is to anticipate when frustration might happen and give your dog an appropriate toy for shaking and tearing. In a class situation, carry a tug or stuffed toy for your dog to hold and chew. If your dog is frustrated by animals or objects on the other side of a fence or gate at home, tie a rope toy to something sturdy by the gate or barrier. Provide shelter dogs and puppies with toys and chew bones in their kennels. Whenever possible, teach them to approach the front of their kennels and sit quietly to solicit attention from passersby.

What NOT to Do (Yes most of this seems like common sense but when we are angry at our animal companions actions we act out in ways that can be inhumane.)

  • Do not show your dog the damage he did and spank, scold or punish him after the fact. He cannot connect your punishment with some behavior he did hours or even minutes ago.
  • Do not use duct tape to hold your dog’s mouth closed around a chewed object for any length of time. This is inhumane, will teach your dog nothing, and dogs have died from this procedure.
  • Do not tie a damaged object to your dog. This is inhumane and will teach your dog nothing.
  • Do not leave your dog in a crate for lengthy periods of time (more than six hours) to prevent chewing.
  • Do not muzzle your dog to prevent chewing.
Posted in andrea cartolano, animal, animals, anxious dog, dogs, Em-Bark Pet Care, embark pet care, pet, Pet Care, pets, vanessa ortega | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Destructive Behavior Tips – 2 of 10 (Series)

Posted on October 6, 2011 by Vanessa

#2. Elimination Outside the Litter Box 

At least ten percent of pet cats develop litter box problems-and most stem from the animal’s aversion to the kind of litter used or the type and/or location of the box. Did you know that the majority of felines prefer a large, uncovered box with unscented litter? And don’t even think of scooping it out any less than once every day!

Litter Box Problems   

At least ten percent of all cats develop  of litter used or the type and/or location of the box. elimination problems. Some stop using the box altogether. Some only use their boxes for urination or defecation but not for both. Still others eliminate both in and out of their boxes. Elimination problems can develop as a result of conflict between multiple cats in a home, as a result of a dislike for the litter-box type or the litter itself, as a result of a past medical condition, or as a result of the cat deciding she doesn’t like the location or placement of the litter box. Unfortunately, once a cat avoids her litter box for whatever reason, her avoidance can become a chronic problem because the cat can develop a surface or location preference for elimination, and this preference might be to your living room rug or your favorite easy chair. The best approach to dealing with these problems is to prevent them before they happen by making your cat’s litter boxes as cat-friendly as possible. (See our common litter-box management issues below, and our ways to make litter boxes cat-friendly.) It is also important that you pay close attention to your cat’s elimination habits so that you can identify problems in the making. If your cat does eliminate outside her box, you must act quickly to resolve the problem before she develops a strong preference for eliminating on an unacceptable surface or in an unacceptable area.

Litter box use problems in cats can be diverse and complex. Behavioral treatments are often effective, but the treatments must be tailored to the cat’s specific problem. Be certain to read the entire article to help you identify your particular cat’s problem and to familiarize yourself with the different resolution approaches to ensure success with your cat.

Why Do Some Cats Eliminate Outside the Litter Box?

Litter-Box Management Problems

If your cat isn’t comfortable with her litter box or can’t easily access it, she probably won’t use it. The following common litter-box problems might cause her to eliminate outside of her box:

  • You haven’t cleaned your cat’s litter box often or thoroughly enough.
  • You haven’t provided enough litter boxes for your household. Be sure to have a litter box for each of your cats, as well as one extra.
  • Your cat’s litter box is too small for her.
  • Your cat can’t easily get to her litter box at all times.
  • Your cat’s litter box has a hood or liner that makes her uncomfortable.
  • The litter in your cat’s box is too deep. Cats usually prefer one to two inches of litter.

Surface Preference

Some cats develop preferences for eliminating on certain surfaces or textures like carpet, potting soil or bedding.

Litter Preference or Aversion

As predators who hunt at night, cats have sensitive senses of smell and touch to help them navigate through their environment. These sensitivities can also influence a cat’s reaction to her litter. Cats who have grown accustomed to a certain litter might decide that they dislike the smell or feel of a different litter.

Location Preference or Aversion

Like people and dogs, cats develop preferences for where they like to eliminate and may avoid locations they don’t like. This means they might avoid their litter box if it’s in a location they dislike.

Inability to Use the Litter Box

Geriatric cats or cats with physical limitations may have a difficult time using certain types of litter boxes such as top-entry boxes, or litter boxes with high sides.

Negative Litter-Box Association

There are many reasons why a cat who has reliably used her litter box in the past starts to eliminate outside of the box. One common reason is that something happened to upset her while she was using the litter box. If this is the case with your cat, you might notice that she seems hesitant to return to the box. She may enter the box, but then leave very quickly—sometimes before even using the box.

One common cause for this is painful elimination. If your cat had a medical condition that caused her pain when she eliminated, she may have learned to associate the discomfort with using her litter box. Even if your cat’s health has returned to normal, that association may still cause her to avoid her litter box.

Household Stress

Stress can cause litter-box problems. Cats can be stressed by events that their owners may not think of as traumatic. Changes in things that even indirectly affect the cat, like moving, adding new animals or family members to your household—even changing your daily routine—can make your cat feel anxious.

Multi-Cat Household Conflict

Sometimes one or more cats in a household control access to litter boxes and prevent the other cats from using them. Even if one of the cats isn’t actually confronting the other cats in the litter box, any conflict between cats in a household can create enough stress to cause litter-box problems.

Medical Problems That Can Cause Inappropriate Elimination     

Urinary Tract Infection (UTI)

If your cat frequently enters her litter box and seems to produce only small amounts of urine, she may have a urinary tract infection. See a veterinarian to rule out this possible medical problem.

Feline Interstitial Cystitis

Feline interstitial cystitis is a neurological disease that affects a cat’s bladder (“cystitis” means inflamed bladder). Cats with cystitis will attempt to urinate frequently and may look as if they are straining, but with little success. They may lick themselves where they urinate, and they may have blood in their urine. Feline interstitial cystitis can cause a cat to eliminate outside of her box, but this is only because of the increased urgency to urinate and because there is pain involved in urination. Feline interstitial cystitis is very serious and can be life-threatening to the cat. It must be treated immediately by a veterinarian.

Kidney Stones or Blockage

If your cat has kidney stones or a blockage, she may frequently enter her litter box. She may also experience pain and meow or cry when she tries to eliminate. Her abdomen may be tender to the touch.

Other Behavior Problems to Rule Out

Urine Marking

Urine marking is a problem that most pet owners consider a litter box problem since it involves elimination outside the box, but the cause and treatment are entirely different from other litter-box problems and therefore it is considered a rule out. A cat who urine marks will regularly eliminate in her litter box, but will also deposit urine in other locations, usually on vertical surfaces. When marking, she’ll usually back up to a vertical object like a chair side, wall or speaker, stand with her body erect and her tail extended straight up in the air, and spray urine onto the surface. Often her tail will twitch while she’s spraying. The amount of urine a cat sprays when she’s urine marking is usually less than the amount she would void during regular elimination in her box.

What to Do If Your Cat Eliminates Outside the Litter Box

Basic Tips for Making Cats Feel Better About Using Their Litter Boxes

  • Virtually all cats like clean litter boxes, so scoop and change your cat’s litter at least once a day. Rinse the litter box out completely with baking soda or unscented soap once a week.
  • The majority of cats prefer large boxes that they can enter easily. Plastic sweater storage containers make excellent litter boxes.
  • Most cats like a shallow bed of litter. Provide one to two inches of litter rather than three to four inches.
  • Most cats prefer clumping, unscented litter.
  • Your cat may prefer the type of litter she used as a kitten.
  • Most cats don’t like box liners or lids on their boxes.
  • Cats like their litter boxes located in a quiet but not “cornered” location. They like to be able to see people or other animals approaching, and they like to have multiple escape routes in case they want to leave their boxes quickly.
  • Because self-cleaning boxes are generally cleaner than traditional types of litter boxes, many cats accept them readily. However, if you’re using a self-cleaning litter box and your cat starts eliminating outside the box, try switching to a traditional type of litter box.

Resolving a Litter-Box Problem

The first step in resolving elimination outside the litter box is to rule out urine marking and medical problems. Have your cat checked thoroughly by a veterinarian. Once your veterinarian determines that your cat doesn’t have a medical condition or issue, try following these guidelines:

  • Provide enough litter boxes. Make sure you have one for each cat in your household, plus one extra. For example, if you have three cats, you’ll need a minimum of four litter boxes.
  • Place litter boxes in accessible locations, away from high-traffic areas and away from areas where the cat might feel trapped. If you live in a multistory residence, you may need to provide a litter box on each level. Keep boxes away from busy, loud or intimidating places, like next to your washer and dryer or next to your dog’s food and water bowls, or in areas where there’s a lot of foot traffic.
  • Put your cat’s food bowls somewhere other than right next to her litter box.
  • Remove covers and liners from all litter boxes.
  • Give your cat a choice of litter types. Cats generally prefer clumping litter with a medium to fine texture. Use unscented litter. Offer different types of litter in boxes placed side-by-side to allow your cat to show you her preference.
  • Scoop at least once a day. Once a week, clean all litter boxes with warm water and unscented soap, baking soda or no soap, and completely replace the litter. The problem with scented cleaners is that your cat could develop an aversion to the scent.
  • Clean accidents thoroughly with an enzymatic cleanser designed to neutralize pet odors. You can find this kind of cleaner at most pet stores.
  • If your cat soils in just a few spots, place litter boxes there. If it’s not possible to put a box in a spot where your cat has eliminated, place her food bowl, water bowl, bed or toys in that area to discourage further elimination.
  • Make inappropriate elimination areas less appealing. Try putting regular or motion-activated lights in dark areas. You can also make surfaces less pleasant to stand on by placing upside-down carpet runners, tin foil or double-sided sticky tape in the area where your cat has eliminated in the past.

If Your Cat Has Developed a Surface or Location Preference

If your cat seems to prefer eliminating on a certain kind of surface or in a certain location, you’ll need to make that surface or its location less appealing. If the preference is in a dark area, try putting a bright light or, even better, a motion-activated light in the area. You can also make surfaces less pleasant to stand on by placing upside-down carpet runners, tin foil or double-sided sticky tape where your cat has eliminated in the past. At the same time, provide your cat with extra litter boxes in acceptable places in case part of her problem is the location of her usual litter box, and be sure to give her multiple kinds of litter to choose from so that she can show you which one she prefers. Put the boxes side-by-side for a while, each with a different type of litter, and check to see which one your cat decides to use.

Clean accidents thoroughly with an enzymatic cleanser designed to neutralize pet odors. You can find this kind of cleaner at most pet stores.

If Your Cat Has Developed a Litter Preference or Aversion

Cats usually develop a preference for litter type and scent as kittens. Some cats adapt to a change of litter without any problem at all, while other cats may feel uncomfortable using a type of litter that they didn’t use when they were young.

If you think your cat may dislike her litter type, texture or smell, try offering her different types of litter to use. Cats generally prefer clumping litter with a medium to fine texture. They also usually prefer unscented litter. To help your cat pick her preferred litter, put a few boxes side-by-side with different types of litter in them. She’ll use the one the she likes best.

Clean accidents thoroughly with an enzymatic cleanser designed to neutralize pet odors. You can find this kind of cleaner at most pet stores.

If Your Cat Is Unable to Use Her Litter Box

Special-needs cats such as those who are older, arthritic or still very young might have trouble with certain types of litter boxes. Boxes that have sides that are too high or have a top-side opening might make it difficult for your cat to enter or leave the box. Try switching to a litter box with low sides.

As in any situation where the cat may have eliminated outside her box, clean accidents thoroughly with an enzymatic cleanser designed to neutralize pet odors. You can find this kind of cleaner at most pet stores.

Treatment for Negative Litter Box Association

If your cat has experienced some kind of frightening or upsetting event while using her litter box, she could associate that event with the litter box and avoid going near it. Things that might upset your cat while she’s eliminating in her box include being cornered or trapped by a dog, cat or person, hearing a loud noise or commotion, or seeing something frightening or startling. These experiences—or any other disturbing experience—could make your cat very reluctant to enter her litter box. If your cat is afraid of her litter box, you may notice her running into the box and then leaving again very quickly, sometimes before she’s finished eliminating. You may also notice her eliminating nearby, but not inside her box. This means that your cat is worried about using her box, especially if she has reliably used litter box in the past.

Changing the Way Your Cat Feels

If your cat associates her litter box with unpleasant things, you can work to help her develop new and pleasant associations. Cats can’t be forced to enjoy something, and trying to show your cat that her litter box is safe by placing her in the box will likely backfire and increase her dislike of the box. It’s usually not a good idea to try to train your cat to use her litter box by offering her treats like you would a dog, because many cats do not like attention while they’re eliminating. However, a professional animal behavior consultant, such as a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB) or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB) may be able to help you design a successful retraining or counter-conditioning program.

Sometimes retraining to overcome litter-box fears or aversions may not be necessary. Here are some steps that you can try to help your cat learn new pleasant associations.

  • Move your cat’s litter box to a new location, or add a few litter boxes in different locations at the same time. Pick locations where your cat can see who is approaching from any sides that aren’t backed by walls. These locations should also have multiple escape routes so that your cat can quickly leave her litter box if she suddenly feels anxious. If possible, make sure that children or other animals who might seem threatening to your cat can’t get near her litter box.
  • Fill the litter boxes one to two inches deep with a litter that is a little different from the litter in the boxes your cat avoids. Use a finer or coarser texture. If you’ve been using scented litter, try unscented litter.
  • Try playing with your cat near her litter box. Also leave treats and toys for her to find and enjoy in the general area leading to her box. Don’t put her food bowl next to the box, though, because cats usually don’t like to eliminate close to their food.
  • If you have a long-haired cat, try carefully and gently clipping the hair on her hind end if you notice that it gets soiled or matted during elimination. Matting can cause the hair to get pulled when the cat eliminates. That can be painful for the cat and make her skittish of her litter box.

Treatment for Household Stress

Cats sometimes stop using their litter boxes when they feel stressed. Identify and, if possible, eliminate any sources of stress or frustration in your cat’s environment. For instance, keep her food bowls full and in the same place, keep her routine as predictable as possible, prevent the dog from chasing her, close blinds on windows and doors so she isn’t upset by cats outside. If you can’t eliminate sources of stress, try to reduce them. Incorporate the use of Feliway spray or diffusers, which deliver a synthetic pheromone that has been shown to have some effect in relieving stress in cats. You can find Feliway products in many pet stores and online.

Treatment for Multi-Cat Household Conflict

Sometimes an elimination problem can develop as a result of conflict between cats who live together. If you have multiple cats and aren’t sure which cat is soiling, speak with your veterinarian about giving fluorescein, a harmless dye, to one of your cats. Although the dye does not usually stain carpeting, it causes urine to glow blue under ultraviolet light for about 24 hours. If you can’t get or use fluorescein, you can temporarily confine your cats, one at a time, to determine which one is eliminating outside of the litter boxes in your home.

If there is a conflict between your cats and one of them seems stressed, provide additional litter boxes in locations where the anxious cat spends the majority of her time. Also be sure to provide adequate resting areas for each cat. It can very useful in multi-cat households to create vertical resting spots on shelves or window sills or by buying multi-perch cat trees. It may help to distribute resources such as food, water, cat posts or trees, and litter boxes so that each individual cat can make use of them without coming into contact or having a conflict with one of the other cats. Using Feliway spray or diffusers can reduce general social stress in your household.

Medications

Always consult with your veterinarian or a veterinary behaviorist before giving your cat any type of medication for a behavior problem.

Medications can provide additional help in treating inappropriate elimination when the behavior is in response to stress or anxiety. It’s unlikely to be helpful if your cat eliminates outside her litter box because of litter-management problems, an aversion to a particular kind of litter or location, a preference for a particular surface or location, or a physical inability to use the box. If you’d like to explore this option, speak with your veterinarian, a veterinary behaviorist or a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist who can work closely with your vet.

What NOT to Do    

Regardless of what you do so solve your cat’s elimination problems, here are a few things to avoid:

  • Do not rub your cat’s nose in urine or feces.
  • Do not scold your cat and carry or drag her to the litter box.
  • Do not confine your cat to a small room with the litter box, for days to weeks or longer, without doing anything else to resolve her elimination problems.
  • Do not clean up accidents with an ammonia-based cleanser. Urine contains ammonia, and therefore cleaning with ammonia could attract your cat to the same spot to urinate again. Instead, use a product specifically for cleaning pet accidents, such as Nature’s Miracle.

 

 

Posted in andrea cartolano, animal, animals, cat care, cats, Em-Bark Pet Care, embark pet care, feces, felines, pet, Pet Care, pets, Phoenix, poop, tempe, Tempe arizona, vanessa ortega | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment